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Gemma Toque
Every so often, I purchase a hand dyed yarn simply because I love the color, or the name of the yarn. I haven’t an idea in my head as to how I might use it, but something about it just touched my creative spirit. This yarn was one such case. It was created by Kenyarn, in this gorgeous gray purple, with specks of color. His inspiration was Madam Pomfrey from the Harry Potter series, and so that became the name of this colorway.
I was deep in the thick of the Harry Potter books for the first time ever, when he posted this yarn, and I had to have it! I didn’t know then, what I might use it for, but I knew at some point, inspiration would strike. Several months later, I was playing with the yarn, and in need of a hat for my oldest daughter, who happens to love all things Harry Potter. I felt that the DK weight yarn might make a thinner hat, which was fine due to her thick hair, but I wanted extra warmth for the ears. Double brim to the rescue! The Gemma Toque is so warm and cozy, and so versatile, much like Madam Pomfrey herself! Rather than give the hat the same name as the yarn, I felt the actor who brought the character to life, deserved a bit of recognition. And so, we have the Gemma Toque! I even used my house scarves crochet hook from Fox Jam, for the making of this hat. So much Harry Potter goodness!
The free pattern below, comes with only one size, but one size fits most! If you follow the gauge, this hat should fit as a slouchy type hat on a younger child, a loose beanie on an older child, and snug beanie on an adult.
You can also purchase a printer-friendly PDF at a low cost from my Ravelry or Etsy shops.
Materials:
- DK weight, 4 ply, Superwash Merino Wool – approximately 200 yds (I used Madam Pomfrey colorway by Kenyarn. Comparable to a worsted weight 3 yarn. A good comparable yarn thickness would be Premier Yarns Everyday.
- Hook size – H, 5mm
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Faux fur pom for closed hat – great tutorial for DIY fur poms by Heart Hook Home.
- Crochet thread (for sewing on the pom)
Terms and abbreviations to know:
ch, chs – chain, chains
st, sts – stitch, stitches
hdc – half double crochet
3rd loop – loop behind the back loop of hdc (in this case, because you have turned your work, it will be the front most loop, below the front loop of the st)
hhdc – herringbone half double croche
- yarn over, and insert hook into designated st
- yarn over, pull yarn through st AND next loop on hook (2 loops remaining on hook)
- yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops on hook
hhdc dec – herringbone half double crochet decreas
- yarn over and insert hook into BL or FL (use BL on BLO rnds, and FL for decreases on other rnds.
- do NOT yarn over, insert hook through second BL or FL
- yarn over, pull yarn through 3 loops
- yarn over, pull yarn through last 2 loops
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
WS – wrong side
RS – right side
Notes: This pattern is worked from the brim up. The brim is double brimmed by working in turning rows, and then folding in half. The hdc 3rd loop is used with the WS facing, so it is actually the front most loop. Alternating the 3rd loop and BL rows creates a nice knit-like look for the RS only of the piece. This hat pattern includes instructions for the open, messy bun beanie as well as the closed hat with the pom. It is only created in one size, but given the stretch, I have found that it fits a wide age range from child through adult, and stretches to the head it is on. It will be slouchier on a young child, and more snug on an adult.
Gauge: taken from brim, 4 inches = 10 rows and 20 sts
The Gemma Toque Pattern
Beginning with the brim
*note* ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. Turning chs do not count as sts.
Ch 31
Turn, and use the back loops, under the chains to crochet through.
Row 1: hdc into 2nd loop from the hook, hdc in each loop across; 30 sts
Row 2: 3rd loop only, hdc into each st across; 30 sts (WS)
Row 3: BLO, hdc in each st across; 30 sts (RS)
Rows 4-44: repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with a row 2; 30 sts
Fold to connect the beginning ch to row 44. Fold with WS facing out. Sl st through the base of the beginning ch, and the BLO of row 44 across to join; 30 sl sts
Then fold in half like a tube, so that the RS is outside facing, and begin working in rnds, connecting the edges of the rows together to close up the brim.
To connect your double brim around, work your first rnd through the ends of each row folded together.
Rnd 1: hdc 66 evenly around – this is 3 hdc per 2 rows so (2 hdc together, 1 hdc)22x; 66 sts
From here on you will be using the hhdc st. Do NOT join, but work in continuous rnds.
Rnds 2-4: hhdc in each st around; 66 sts
Rnd 5: BLO hhdc in each st around; 66 sts
Rnds 6-7: repeat rnd 2; 66 sts
Rnd 8: repeat rnd 5; 66 sts
Rnd 9-10: repeat rnd 2; 66 sts
Rnd 11: BLO (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 9 sts)6x; 60 sts
Rnds 12-13: hhdc in each st around; 60 sts
Rnd 14: BLO (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 8 sts)6x; 54 sts
Rnds 15-16: hhdc in each st around; 54 sts
Rnd 17: BLO (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 7 sts)6x; 48 sts
Rnd 18: (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 6 sts)6x; 42 sts
Rnd 19: (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 5 sts)6x; 36 sts
Rnd 20: BLO (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 4 sts)6x; 30 sts
Rnd 21: (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 3 sts)6x; 24 sts
Rnd 22: (hhdc dec, hhdc in next 2 sts)6x; 18 sts
Stop here and weave in ends for the messy bun beanie.
Closing it, is also really simple! Fasten off with a long tail, and weave your end in and out around the final rnd, and pull closed. Knot off and weave in all the ends.
Finishing touches
Find the center front, and pull together the first 4 lines of unworked front loops. Sew through all 4 of them to connect. Sew your yarn around the same space as many times as you’d like for the center knot. Fasten off and weave in ends inside the hat.
For the closed hat, attach your pom to the top of the hat, sewing with crochet thread.
